Understanding Hair Scissor Steel: VG10, 440C, Cobalt, and Damascus
The steel a scissor is made from determines almost everything about how it performs — sharpness, edge retention, weight, resistance to corrosion, and how it responds to sharpening. Understanding your options makes it easier to choose a scissor that matches how you work.
Why Steel Matters More Than Price
Two scissors at the same price point can perform very differently depending on their steel. Conversely, a well-crafted scissor in mid-grade steel will outperform a poorly finished scissor in premium steel. Steel type is important, but it works alongside construction quality, blade geometry, and finish.
The Main Steel Types
SUS440C — The Professional Standard
440C is the most widely used steel in professional scissors worldwide.
- Hardness: HRC 56–58
- Cobalt content: None
- Sharpening: Straightforward — most sharpeners are experienced with 440C
- Edge retention: Good
- Corrosion resistance: Excellent
440C is stable, predictable, and relatively forgiving in use. It dulls more quickly than cobalt-enhanced steels, but it also sharpens more easily. For stylists who sharpen frequently or who are more budget-conscious, 440C is a solid choice. Juntetsu Shears uses 440C across its range.
VG10 (V-Gold 10) — The Professional’s Favourite
VG10 is a Japanese-origin stainless steel with a cobalt addition that raises both hardness and edge retention.
- Hardness: HRC 60–61
- Cobalt content: ~1.5%
- Sharpening: Requires a sharpener experienced with harder steels
- Edge retention: Excellent — holds its edge 30–40% longer than 440C
- Corrosion resistance: Excellent
VG10 is the most popular choice for working professionals who want a sharp scissor that stays sharp through a full day’s use. It is the steel used in all Ichiro Shears models and the Mina Shears premium range. The additional hardness means you may need slightly longer intervals between sharpenings.
Cobalt Alloy Steels — Built for Heavy Use
Some manufacturers develop proprietary cobalt alloy formulations with higher cobalt percentages than VG10.
- Hardness: HRC 60–63
- Edge retention: Outstanding
- Sharpening: Requires specialist equipment
- Best for: Stylists cutting high daily volumes who can wait longer between sharpenings
These steels perform exceptionally but require sharpeners with the right equipment. If you work in a city with good access to professional scissor sharpeners, this tier is worth considering.
Damascus Steel — Performance and Craft
Damascus scissors are constructed by folding and forging multiple layers of steel together, producing the distinctive wave pattern visible on the blade.
- Hardness: Typically HRC 60–62 (varies by construction)
- Edge retention: Excellent
- Visual character: The layered pattern is genuinely beautiful
- Price: Premium and high-end
Damascus offers excellent performance, but the visual quality is also part of the appeal. Some stylists choose Damascus as a combination of daily tool and craft object.
Hardness (HRC) Explained
HRC (Rockwell Hardness Scale C) is the standard for measuring steel hardness.
- Higher HRC = harder steel — holds a sharper edge longer, but more brittle and harder to sharpen
- Lower HRC = softer steel — easier to sharpen, more flexible, dulls faster
The sweet spot for scissors is HRC 56–63. Below this, the edge dulls too quickly. Above it, the steel becomes brittle and susceptible to chipping if the blade meets something hard.
What to Ask When Buying
If a scissor listing doesn’t specify the steel type, ask. Any reputable manufacturer will provide this information. “Japanese steel” is not a specification — VG10 and 440C are both Japanese steels, but they perform quite differently.